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Saturday, April 17, 2010

Ramapo-Dunderberg Trail



















Three years ago, the MC, the Vpo man and myself tackled the 22 mile Suffern Bear Mountain (SBM) trail. Today we set out without any assistance.  We planned on doing what appeared to be 24 miles of merciless ups and downs.

The forecast was to be chances of rain and highs in the mid 40s. I, of course, used to the lovely weather we have been having, did not bring any rain gear. The Vpo man kindly allowed me to borrow one of his jackets. This worked out well as I had it on much of the day. If it wasn't drizzling it was a bit nippy out.

The Ramapo-Dunderberg (RD) Trail starts at the Ramapo Train Station. This is where we met up with the MC. He was ready. Big time ready. He looked like he was ready to stomp out each and every hill of this trail. The Vpo man on the other hand looked scared. He looked frightened. "Why am I doing this? I'd rather be home watching America's Next Top Model.", was written all over his face. Despite this and the fact he spent much of the previous night looking for bailout points, I still had faith in the Vpo man.

Like the other long distance hike in the area,the SBM,the RD climbs right from the start. Not much before 7, we already got the heart, lungs and legs working. It was a nice little climb through woods that were starting to bloom. Unlike the previous few weeks when the trees were bare, the trees here were surprisingly full. After a couple of stream crossings and another climb we entered an area of bare rock, Black Ash Mountain. From here views of the surrounding area could be seen. The enormity of Harriman State Park was obvious. In a county as populated as Rockland (we were actually in the southern part of Orange county along the border), the views showed hardly any signs of development. Toward the east there was a radio tower and nice views into the Ramapo Valley. To the North and west there were views of the different ridges that were encompassed in the park.

We continued walking on what felt like an alpine summit. Lots of bare rock, tall grasses, moss covered rocks, scrub trees and some swampy areas. We then came up to Tom Jones Mountain where there was a shelter. It appeared there were a few who braved the night out in the downpour. We then climbed down to our first road crossing, where we'd take a quick bite of snacks.

Almost always, where there is a road crossing, there is a climb afterward. This was no different. This climb was a little nasty. There were some steep areas that required the use of hands. It was also slippery due to the rain and on and off drizzle we had been experiencing.

Although the top was fairly wooded, there were views of some of the lakes in the surrounding areas. There were also a few landmarks, Ship Rock and Times Square. Ship Rock is a 30 foot tall rock that the Vpo man and the MC have climbed in the past. Times Square is a junction of multiple trails (my guess is that they're popular ones). It was actually in a swampy area and if I'm not mistaken the real Times Square (pre-Europeans) was a swamp and the Times Square linking herd paths to three of the 46ers also is a swampy area.

From Times Square we climbed up to Fingerboard Mountain where we hooked up with the A.T. The MC has hiked this section in the past, being that he has completed all of the 2,000 plus miles of trail that run from GA---->ME. I, myself, have completed the southern half and get excited each time I'm on the A.T. in this region. This section was fairly wooded, but offered a nice stroll. At the bottom of Fingerboard Mountain, we hit our second road crossing of the day. This was a nice opportunity to have some lunch.

Refueled and re-energized, we walked through woods where we came across some trail runners. These guys were either super hardcore, without looking super hardcore, or they were just bullshitting us. They supposedly were out for a 34 mile run. It wasn't a race or anything, just out for a 34 mile run on hiking trails. Unreal. Very impressive if they were successful. We then branched off from the A.T. and followed a woods road across Seven Lakes Drive, where we then, naturally, proceeded up. This time it was Goshen Mountain.

Following Goshen Mountain, we locked horns with the A.T. one last time for the next few miles (possibly the greatest miles of the entire RD). We then came across a shelter where there were a few groups that were going to spend the night out. We hit a stream crossing where we filled up our water bottles. From here it was another climb up to the summit of Black Mountain. There were great views of Silvermine Lake. We then were up on a ridge with exceptional views south. From here you could see the Hudson River south to almost the Tappan Zee Bridge. The NYC skyline is clearly visible. Although it's been almost 10 years since 9/11, I still long to see the Twin Towers as part of the skyline. This was really a great section of the walk. There was also a good amount of wind and it got a bit cold at this point. We then climbed down to the Palisades Parkway where we saw the remains of "trail magic" from the previous year. "Trail Magic" is the term A.T. thru-hikers give to gifts that others may leave. It's not uncommon for people to leave coolers full of soda, beer or candy at the sides of the road. This is exactly what we came across by the Palisades.

Probably the nastiest climb of the day was the one climbing up from the Palisades. The RD departed from the A.T. at this point and the climb was relentless. The last part especially so. I saw someone to the right of me, but the trail was going to the left. I was kind of surprised. But, when I reached the top of the climb I met a guy who was part of a group hike doing the SBM. This was the point where the SBM and the RD crossed paths. This guy was "way ahead of the rest of the group" because he was out here for "speed." And I believe him. He was probably your stereotypical gym rat who saw this hike advertised at the gym. What do I care? I myself have been out in the past for speed and thru hikers would have a saying, "hike your own hike."

"When the going gets tough, the tough get going." The Vpo man had enough. He was done, but he kept on going through a real tough ass section of the trail. Thankfully, the sun peaked out here and there. The slabs of rock we had to cross along the side of West Mountain probably would have produced a fall or two if it was still wet. This area was fairly dry, but it was still slow going. But, that made it easy to soak in the views of the Hudson River to the south. We then climbed up the Timp and Bald Mountain. It was near the top of Bald Mountain that the MC and I thought the Vpo man was near death. He looked beyond resuscitation. But, he kept on.

We then made our way to the summit of Dunderberg Mountain. Yeah! The finish was near. But, not before a last rite of passage through some more ups and downs. We stopped at an awesome view point just off the trail to take some pics. The views to the north were spectacular. Bear Mountain, the Bear mountain Bridge and Anthony's Nose were all visible from here. At this point we were at the same point west as Bear Mountain. I was explaining to the MC that we soon would be east of Anthony's Nose, which is on the east side of the Hudson. This is because the Hudson River bends east here and Dunderberg Mountain extends eastward into the Hudson.

We then had a steep, rocky down climb with some views of the Hudson and the controversial Indian Point Nuclear Power Plant. Surprisingly, despite my soles of my boots rolling up, my feet were in fairly good shape. The MC and I met up with the Vpo man who was waiting at the car. Quickly, the conversation was directed towards food. The Vpo man was looking forward to some soup, while I was looking forward to a bottle of soda.

When we got back to Ramapo, the MC gave us some awards (made out of polymer clay) for our achievement. This was a very thoughtful gift. I look forward to hiking with the MC and the Vpo man in the future.

Here are some of the stats. Start time: 6:50am Finish: 6:40pm

There was a group hike on March 20. Some of the hikers were carrying Gps devices and altimeters. The trail is approximately 23.5 miles with elevation gain of 5,300 to 5,700 feet.

3 comments:

  1. Lots of nice photos, cpo. The weather, time of year, and landscape conspired to help you out with the photography. Truly one of the great, local long-distrance hiking trails. Based on scenery alone, this trail is much more appealing than the Suffern-Bear Mountain Trail.

    The third photo up from the bottom was me feeling physically wretched after reaching mile 20. That gritty look of digust on my face was from seeing my best friend snickering about my physical suffering. But I'm glad you snapped the shot, as it will forever bring me back to that moment, that place, the battle of mind and body. Somehow I found the strength to finish. I knew it would be tough, especially since I was physically in top form. Worth the suffering.

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  2. Just read this report again. Can't believe that the SBM hike was 5 years ago, and this one over 2 years ago.
    Loved re-reading the post, I have to say. Great details and humor. Especially the bits in the 3rd paragraph about me wishing I'd stayed home to watch Americas Next Top Model. Lol.
    Looking at these photos and reading your post makes me actually want to do this trail again. However, I dont really have a desire to hike it in reverse. I think the way we did it is the best way, the most beautiful. To end at the Hudson is awesome.

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  3. Excellent article on a path without much literature. Looking forward to doing this hike over two days this first weekend in May! Thanks for the info!

    It seems the halfway point is near the fingerboard shelter. Id like to do closer to 2/3 of the distance on the first day, So im hoping to make camp (tentitively near the top of Lake Tiorati- somewhere in the portion of the trail where it splits from the AT. What are your thoughts on this?

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