One of the many monkeys of Emei Shan |
A temple near the entrance |
A map of Emei Shan carved into the rocks |
1st view of Emei Shan |
Lots of merchants along the way |
Gecko |
Wannian Temple, oldest on Emei Shan |
Wannian Temple, over 1,000 years old |
For good luck, rub the elephant's legs |
Wannian Temple |
More Wannian Temple |
Up |
And up |
Friends we met along the way. We were just called "brother." |
The AT has white blazes. The Camino has yellow arrows. Emei Shan has this. And it was the only one I saw. |
A friendly vendor |
1st monkey sighting |
Elephant Bathing Pool Monastery |
The killer views |
Sunrise at Elephant Bathing Pool |
More killer views |
Marc and a monkey |
Views down below |
Mt Gongga and others. At over 7500m, Mt Gongga is higher than anything outside of Asia. |
Golden Summit |
Chris Hiker and the Big T |
Golden Summit |
One of the many elephants |
Pilgrims |
Wanfo Peak from Golden Summit |
Eloise and Stuart |
Striking a pose on the Golden Summit |
Golden Summit |
Mischevious Monkey |
Jieyin Hall |
Sunset and a trace of the Buddha's Halo |
Incence |
Jieyin Hall |
Myself and the mountains |
What can I say? I like pilgrimages. Going medieval to me is going on a pilgrimage. I'm now 2 for 2 when going overseas. I'll have to take this into consideration each time I travel abroad. The Camino de Santiago was a Christian (Catholic) pilgrimage and this one a Buddhist pilgrimage.
This got off to a humorous start. We were on the bus from Chengdu to the town at the base of Mt. Emei. Like most buses there were hardly any westerners, Tim and I along with a guy from Canada. The bus stops at the side of the road. A woman comes on and looks at us and tells us to come off. This doesn't look like a bus station, but we all get off anyway. For a few seconds I was thinking, "what the F just happened? We literally could be anywhere, so this is how it's gonna end? Great." I came to my senses. The woman in the midst of her Chinese would say "Teddy Bear." This was the Hostel we would be staying at. It was basically a scam to get us off the bus to pay 10 RMB (approximately $2) for a taxi. No big deal, but so easy to fall for in such a foreign country.
The next day my brother and I started out around 8am. The town sits at about 500m (~1600 ft) and the summit is at 3000m (~10,000 ft). Yeah, it was going to be some climb. We struggled to find the entrance. We eventually decided to just walk up and with some help from some kind locals (the maps sucked), we found the route. The entrance was in the middle of nowhere and the communist security guy would not accept my student ID like the others at Jiuzhaigou and Grand Buddha. If I just knew more than thank you in Chinese, I would've haggled with the guy. There was no sense since I was lucky to use my long outdated ID in the first place.
After the entrance the climbing began. For the most part it was non-stop. I'm pretty certain, I will never see more steps for the rest of my life. The amount of labor it must have taken. And they do things the old-fashioned way. There were many vendors along the way. If it wasn't pack mules carrying supplies up, it was a strong man or woman lugging up a hundred pounds of supplies up the never ending steps. Insane!
We were quite fortunate with the weather. Although it was a bit humid, it was not merciless and the skies were quite clear. We were also quite fortunate with the people we met along the way. We met three Chinese that were brother and sisters. When they first met me I was by myself, but I told them I was hiking with my brother. That's what they called my brother and I from then on. We also met Stuart and Eloise from England and Marc from Quebec. We would spend much of the next 2 days with them.
On the way up to the Elephant Pool Monastery, I spotted my first monkey. I was surprised how large he was. I was thinking, "Man this guy could really, F me up!" Fortunately (or unfortunately) my line of work has prepared me well for encounters with those that choose to bite. I eventually, just chilled and enjoyed the moment, in awe of how amazing this animal looked.
It'd be hard to describe the monastery we stayed at. Rustic does come to mind, but does it no justice. It was an old building, built on top of one of the hills leading to Emei with lots of monkeys about. The floors that I was walking on were creeky and I was waiting for them to give out. The views from here were immaculate. Absolutely stunning. Then there were the monks. I chatted with a few (I use that term lightly, it was mostly finger pointing) about the monkeys and about dinner. The Chinese in general don't seem to mind spitting in the streets. They seem to relish it. The monks at this monastery took it to another level. "Haaaakkpuuutt!" Even where they do their prayers. I think I laughed every time I heard someone spit cause it was just so out of the ordinary of what we do in public.
From here we caught a beautiful sunrise. The monkeys were out early and the first victim was Stuart's water bottle. They got a hold of it and bit into the bottom of it. Stuart was a trooper. He taped the bottle and carried it up to the summit. I thought that was pretty awesome. Tim and I had breakfast with Marc at the restaurant just up from the monastery. What's a Chinese breakfast? In this case it was Eggs and Noodles.
We all had a great walk together. Eventually, we saw a group of mountains with snow covered peaks. They were obviously very high. They were not the Himalayas, but were fairly close in stature. The largest one we could see was Mt Gangga at 7500m. That would make it higher than anything outside of Asia. I thought that was pretty Fn cool. I had no idea I'd be viewing Himalaya type mountains on this trip. Nepal and trekking in the Himalayas has been a life long dream of mine. So, those views for me were really sweet.
When we got to the summit, we decided to make like the Chinese and strike a pose. The summit afforded some of the most impressive views I have ever seen. Views of the distant Himalaya type peaks. The views of Wanfo Peak and the surrounding peaks and cloud cover. The different statues and temples on the summit. The pilgrims kneeling and praying, reminding us this was more than a tourist destination.
Tim, Marc and I walked down and stayed at a monastery just below the summit. While we were walking to dinner we witnessed the spectacle of the monkeys theft skills of tourists. No water bottle was spared. Did the monkeys show mercy on an infant? No. Even they had to pay up. It was quite entertaining to say the least.
Being so high up, the temperature cooled. We enjoyed a nice sunset. I missed the Buddha's Halo, since I did not know what I was looking at, but supposedly there are rings around the sun as it's setting. After the sun set, Tim, Marc and I sat down on the steps of the monastery. Such a great moment. Sitting there, feeling the cool breeze on my arms. The distant mountains in view in the twilight. Listening to the prayer service and chanting of the Monks in a language unknown to me. So nice to be at such peace.
Fun article. Did it take you two days to get down? This place seems like a must visit.
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